Trekking Independently to Annapurna Base Camp via Poon Hill, Oct’19

Date: 9 Oct 19 – 15 Oct 19

Duration: 7 days 6 nights

Maximum Elevation: 4130 m

Start: Naya Pul
End: Ghandruk

Guide: No
Porter: No
Insurance: No

Difficulty: Moderate

Permit:

ACAP Permit: Rs 3000
TIMS Card: Rs 2000 (Independent trekker)

Applying ACAP Permit & TIMS Card at Damside, Pokhara

Packing List:

No.	Item	Weight (g)	Remark
1	Backpack (55+10 L) + Rain Cover	2400	40 L is ideal
2	Hiking Boot (TNF GoreTex)	1085	Waterproof is recommended
3	Socks x 3 pairs	50	2 pairs are sufficient
4	Thermal Sock	20	Rs 500 in Pokhara. Not warm
5	Slipper	100
6	Sleeping Bag	970	Doable without one
7	Camera + Lens + Back Up Battery + Bag	600
8	Smart phone	120
9	Power Bank	240	Portable solar panel is useful
10	Base Layer Top	200
11	Base Layer Bottom	50
12	Down Jacket	250	800 Fill Power
13	Softshell/Windbreaker	544
14	Poncho	50	Not even use once
15	Convertible Trekking Trouser	460
16	Trekking Top	100
17	Sleeping Top	145
18	Undergarment x 4	80	3 are sufficient
19	Microfiber Towel	100
20	Trekking Sun Hat	50
21	Trekking Pole	500	Rs 2000/pair in Pokhara
22	Water Bottle (1 L)	1000
23	Headlight + Batteries	50
24	First Aid Kit (Paracetamol+Diamox+Imodium+Ibuprofen+ Plaster+Blister Plaster+Lip Balm+Wind Oil	50
25	Water Purification Tablet (Aquatab)	10	Rs 250/box in Pokhara
26	Sunglass, Hand Glove, Beanie, Buff, Handkerchief, etc.	100
27	Toiletry (Toilet Paper, Tooth Brush, Toothpaste, Dental Floss, Soap, Package Shampoo x 2, Facial Foam	200
28	Miscellaneous (Passport, permit, cash, universal travel adapter, plastic bag, etc.)	100
	TOTAL	9,624

Trek Route:

09/10: Naya Pul to Tikhe Dhunga (3 hrs [3pm-6pm]; 9.1 km; 540 m ascent)

There is no proper trail head for Annapurna Base Camp trek. It could be here. 

TIMS Checkpost at Birethani

Stone step

10/10: Tikhe Dhunga to Ghorepani with lunch break at Nangathanti (7 hrs [8am-3pm]; 9.7 km; 1360 m ascent)

The trail was created in such a way to criss-cross lodges and guesthouses

11/10: Ghorepani to Poon Hill to Ghorepani to Chuile with breakfast break at Ghorepani and lunch break at Tadapani (8 hrs [4.30am-5.10am] [8am-8.20am] [10am-5pm]); 14 km; 864 m ascent; 1024 descent)

Excellent lodge with open dining area at Tadapani

Poon Hill - Checked in with my fellow trek mates from China!

Spectacular panorama at Poon Hill

Hot drinks rate at Poon Hill

12/10: Chuile to Sinuwa with lunch break at Chhomrong (8 hrs [9am-5pm]; 10 km; 977 m ascent; 758 m descent)

Dhal Bhat prepared by Didi in Chhomrong Cottage. It is the best I have ever taken so far! 

Beautiful morning sun rays at Chhomrong 

13/10: Sinuwa to Machapuchre Base Camp with lunch break at Deurali (7 hrs 15 min [7am-2.15pm]; 14 km; 1596 m ascent)

14/10: Machapuchre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp to Machapuchre Base Camp to Chhomrong with breakfast break at Machapuchre Base Camp and lunch break at Dovan (10 hrs [4am-5.30am] [8am-9am] [9.45am-5.15pm]; 23 km; 767 m ascent; 2238 m descent)

Annapurna Base Camp - Checked in!

Close up view of Annapurna South (7219 m) and Annapurna I (8091 m) from Annapurna  Base Camp (4130 m)

Annapurna Sanctuary - Checked in with my fellow trek mates!

15/10: Chhomrong to Ghandruk (3 hrs 45 min [8.30am-12.15pm]; 7.8 km; 370 m ascent; descent 712 m)

The longest suspension bridge near Samrung

Jeep counter at trail end. Most people ends the trek here

Important Note:

1.     Local bus/shared taxi from Pokhara to trail head (Naya Pul) costs Rs 250/Rs 850 per head. Shared jeep from trail end (4 km before Ghandruk) to Pokhara costs Rs 1500-Rs 2000 per head; local bus from Ghandruk to Pokhara costs Rs 500 per head.

Local bus goes as far as Ghandruk now

Ghandruk bus station. We ended our trek here. It took approximately 5 hrs to return to Pokhara.

2.     The entire trail is well-signposted and well-trekked. Guides and porters are not necessary. It is rare to walk more than an hour without seeing any trekker during high season. Offline maps e.g. Maps.me is informative and very useful.

3.     Most lodges and guesthouses have shared toilet/bathroom only. Rooms are basic but clean, in fact cleaner than trekkers! A single bed costs Rs 150-Rs 200; hot shower is generated by gas/geyser and costs Rs 100-Rs 150; WIFI costs Rs 100-Rs 300; battery charge costs Rs 100.

4.     Almost all lodges and guesthouses run a restaurant. You must eat at where you stay. Restaurant menu is quite extensive but identical. The price has been fixed by the Tourism Management Committee and is approximately three times higher than the useual price. Breakfast/lunch/dinner costs approximately Rs 500/meal with price shooting up as you get higher up in the mountain.

A sample of menu in the mountain

5.     1 L of bottled/refilled/safe drinking water in the mountain costs Rs 100-Rs 150. Bring water purification tablet.
6.   There is a wholesale shop in Chhomrong whichs sell reasonably priced supplies. 

Chhomrong - The last stop to stack up 'more reasonably priced' groceries

7.     Sunrise: 6.05am; Sunset: 5.30pm