马背上的游牧民族

羊群牛只悠悠地在广阔的草原上吃草，它们一边低头叼草，一边吐出草原的语言，在苍穹的见证下与马背上的吆喝声结合成一首让人眷恋的草原之歌，由近而远地荡漾在遥远的地平线上，目送着踽踽骑行的游牧身影。

天苍苍野茫茫的草原景色，永远都是风吹草低见牛羊

世界上大概再也没有一个民族，如吉尔吉斯人(Kyrgyz)般如此贴近着他们有限的大地。

吉尔吉斯坦是中亚的一个内陆国家，境内三分之一的疆土皆是离海拔三千多米的山岭地带，是名副其实的高山国家，少得可怜的平原是扎根于此的游牧民族称之为家的栖息之地。在吉尔吉斯语里，“吉尔吉斯”是由“草原”与“流浪”这两个词所构成，单是这两个名词，已足以牵动凡夫俗子的浪漫情怀，催发一发不可收拾的遐想去追寻。

在吉尔吉斯坦进入冬季前，我从首都比什凯克(Bishkek) 沿着蜿蜒崎岖的山路南下，在翻越了柯扎尔特山口(Kyzart Pass)后，一发不可收拾的遐想把我带到了距离海拔超过三千米的颂湖(Song-Köl)。颂湖是一个高山湖泊，是吉尔吉斯坦第二大湖，仅次于东北边终年不封冻的伊塞克湖(Issyk-Köl)。九月的秋天，颂湖旁的草原天气多变，日夜的温度悬殊开始扩大，牧草也开始枯黄，思念的情歌却才要吟唱。

马背上的游牧民族，千年以来都在苍穹与土地的见证下，进行一场周而复始的无声对话

一览无遗的高原牧场(吉尔吉斯语: Jailoo)上，游牧民族的白色毡房悠悠地释放着袅袅的白烟。我义无反顾地奔向这些在苍穹下散落满地的毡房，韩国友人早已在毡房外微笑着恭候。呈圆形的毡房以木头为骨架，然后以草帘围上，再盖上毛毡，外部周边以绳子纵横捆绑，牢牢地固定在木桩上，以防毡房被大风卷走。

毗邻而建的毡房，被太阳晒出一股家园的味道

掀起门帘踏入房内，赤裸的双脚立刻就踩踏在刺绣精美的地毯上，地铺右边角落摆着一个烤火取暖的传统烤炉，掺杂着木香的烤烟借由纤细的烟道排出房外，把原本已让人倍感温暖的房内烧出一股熏熏的暖意。房内四壁皆挂着布满各种民族符号和文化图腾的围布和挂毯，房顶正中间留有一个透气的天窗，光线从这里导入，把毡房内一切的陈设与装潢展现眼前。

毡房内上下四周皆布满厚厚的围布与地毯，旨在抵御冬季刺骨的寒风

毡房结构简单，拆迁方便，四季通用，柔软的毛毡还可抵御冬季刺骨的寒意，不但适用于不断流徙的游牧生活，还是中亚民族的心灵寄托处。对于毡房，中亚民族有着永远都无法割舍的情意结，虽然吉尔吉斯人刚在上世纪完成了由游牧转向定居的漫长历史进程，但住在高原山区以畜牧业为生的吉尔吉斯人，似乎并不十分看重定居的生活方式，自供自足物物交换的游牧文化依然活跃，吉尔吉斯境内遍地是山，游牧业依然是山区主要的经济来源。前来颂湖途中，我还看见一些定居下来的居民，依然在他们的现代式钢骨水泥房舍旁，搭起一座又一座结合了游牧建筑艺术和民间实用艺术的毡房，印证了毡房是吉尔吉斯民族物质文化的表现之一。

白色毡房 – 中亚游牧文化的象征

我撇下韩国友人径自走到湖畔，泛着蓝光的碧绿湖水默默地匍匐在山峦间的盆地里，为广阔的草原提供了充沛的水源，滋养着草原上的每一根牧草；清澈浩淼的湖面倒映着羊群牛只的身影，在我加入后被一阵突如其来的微风给打碎；对岸跌宕起伏的山峦，在云雾中若隐若现，显得静谧又神奇；远处逐渐落色的山坡上布满了豆大般的羊群黑点；皑皑白雪开始在山顶上聚集，模糊了天空的边际……我索性躺在湖畔的草堆上，放空心境，任由思绪在无拘无束的思想草原上自由奔放，湖光山色的良辰美景从这一刻开始定格。

一平如镜的颂湖，匍匐在山峦与草原之间的盆地里，滋养着草原上的每一根牧草

无拘无束的马匹，在蓝得令人窒息的天空下定格成一幅图画的主角

隔天一早醒来，吉尔吉斯女人早已到牛棚挤牛奶，吉尔吉斯男人则在草原上放牧。他们在马背上挥舞着细长的枝干，骑在驴背上紧随一旁的孩童则顽皮地驱赶着在草原上吃草的马儿，使它们热情地奔跑在辽阔和壮美的草原上，形成一副万马奔腾的壮阔景象，吓着了正在低头吃草的羊群和牛只。 

吉尔吉斯女人每天一早，都要到牛棚里去挤牛奶

吉尔吉斯男人每天一早，都会把牲畜留在草原上的粪块回收

每一个吉尔吉斯人都跟牲畜一起长大，儿时的玩伴，不是羊群牛只就是马儿驴子。我拉紧外衣走到另一个毡房里，和吉尔吉斯人一样把一杯发酵的马奶(吉尔吉斯语: Kymys)灌入肚里。毡房四周皆是一坨坨牲畜昨日所留下的粪块，一名吉尔吉斯男人正勤快地以铲子把它们一一收集。入冬时，大多数住在颂湖边的游牧民族都会撤离，只有一小撮人会继续留守在湖边寥寥无几的毡房内，在封冻的湖面上垂钓，那时候，这些耐心回收的粪块，可是牧民家中最重要的柴火。

草原上的牧民，只需要一把小刀，就可在半小时内把一只羊层层分解，全程守在一旁的小孩，面不改色

吉尔吉斯这个马背上的民族，一辈子都在过着永续经营的游牧生活。他们将方便组装拆卸的白色毡房，建立在以草原为背景的苍穹下，按照季节更迭所衍生的气候转变，流徙于大自然所孕育出来的各种地理环境。他们牧养着羊群牛只马儿驴子，吃着羊肉、牛肉和马肉，喝着从它们身上榨取的奶汁，把它们身上的毛皮制作成毡房，马儿和驴子是他们的运输工具；羊群牛只和马儿驴子在草原上吃草，排放在草原上的粪便不但滋润着土地，还可充当烹煮和取暖的燃料。

吉尔吉斯人取自这片土地，用于这片土地，再归还给这片土地，以最纯粹洒脱的民族心态经营着最简单规律的生活形态，不但没有浪费这片土地所赐予他们的资源，还把群山环抱与世无争的高原捎来了浓浓的牧场风情，为原本平平无奇的草原染上了浓郁且深刻的民族色彩。

头戴传统高帽(吉尔吉斯语: Ak-Kalpak)的牧民，正以望远镜观测远方，心里嘀咕着不知又有哪一个访客闯入他们的净土

叼羊比赛(吉尔吉斯语: Kok Boru)是吉尔吉斯坦的国家体育运动，两方骑士要在马背上抢到赛中的无头羊躯，然后骑着马直奔对方的龙门投放即可得分

我们居住在美丽的颂湖旁，与当地的游牧民族为邻，肆无忌惮地吃着和游牧民族一样的食物，有养学样地喝着发酵的奶汁，却过着不可能和他们一样的日常生活，游牧民族看似潇洒自由可实际上却离不开与大自然搏斗的苛刻生活，不是凡夫俗子如我所能理解的。

我在广阔的草原上一往无前地奔跑，草原之歌依然在吟唱着，狂奔的影子却无法留在苍茫的草原上……

                                       (此文刊于星洲日报快乐星期天优游自在版2018年7月22号)

Another Sequel

I thought I’m closing the chapter of Kyrgyzstan until I received a message from S.

hellow myfriend.
are you get to Pakistan safely?
today I just staying in Bishkek still the same. (dont have to explain why)
I realize that you wrote something about this guest house and people on your blog.
(even about me) cause the owner of guest house told me that they found your blog from google search
during they searching backpackers opinions about there own business.
I know you spend hard days in here.
and you still say the same thing you already told me a lot (except that I want stay here cause I just want hang arround with Japanese, even that is not major reason) but there are no answears
about travel my friend. (as I told you a lot)
and you better to care about that when you put your opinions about someone else, you not really gonna put there real names on blog. cause still the blog is open space and your opinion can heart them.
There is no serious or non-serious in travel. people just can do whatever they want as there own serious way even they doesn't explain to you (like you say on your blog, 'freedom and flexible')
Maybe you will realize that when you travel a lot enough more... my friend.
Still I think I enjoyed travel with you these days and Im so sorry that I couldn't go with you.
Just I hope you have more relax and warm vision to judge someone or even just for opinions.
You not wrong. but others doesn't neither.

I hope you enjoy rest of your journey my friend.

ps : I'll never mind that you even block me
from facebook account if you want it.
I just want you understand meaning of this massage.
Im not blame on you

Do you know what came to my mind first when I read through this message?

It’s patronizing. Ermmm…perhaps not…not only before I met and greeted the sender again in Hunza that I realized I was ignored. I was quite surprise he was reluctant to confront me. To be honest, I was quite sad and disappointed but that’s it. I told myself no further approach is necessary. Why should I let my warm face be received with a cold ass?

I never know that there are actually people out there who would get fussy when there is a time they were mentioned in someone else’s blog. The worst thing is I didn’t(did I?) even write something bad about somebody(please read Another Days(s) which has turned out to be the center of controversial and judge me).

‘…and you better to care about that when you put your opinions about someone else, you not really gonna put there(their) real names on blog. cause still the blog is open space and your opinion can heart(hurt) them.’

Perhaps I should appreciate this kind reminder but I also want to tell that this is a world of freedom of expression. I know the boundary of blogging very well and that’s the reason I use surname/last name/nick name and not the full(real) name in each and all of my blog entries. Libel is a thing that never comes across my mind, ever.

‘There is no serious or non-serious in travel. people just can do whatever they want as there(their) own serious way even they doesn't explain to you (like you say on your blog, 'freedom and flexible')

To be honest, I don’t know what the point of the aforementioned is as this is exactly what I have mentioned and agreed about ‘freedom and flexibility’ in my blog. Apparently this is redundant.

‘Maybe you will realize that when you travel a lot enough more...’

Am I not traveling enough just to realize that everybody has their own travel goal and style? I don’t think one needs to travel more to realize this simple fact. Having been on the road for months, I will never say this to anybody to show my seniority. This is apparently written by someone who thought that he has been on the road for awhile and hence stands on a higher ground to teach you something about traveling.

‘Just I hope you have more relax and warm vision to judge someone or even just for opinions.
You (are) not wrong. but others doesn't(don’t) neither.’

Since there is no right or wrong thing as the sender said, then my opinion and how I related my travel encounter is not important. If there is no right or correct thing, then why there are somebody out there who would feel annoyed or even irritated? Once again, I didn’t even say something or someone is wrong. What about if I did?

‘I'll never mind that you even block me from facebook account if you want it. I just want you understand meaning of this massage(message). Im(I’m) not blame(blaming) on you.’

Blocking the sender on Facebook? This is so funny. Why should I do that while on the contrary he is the one who ignored me? I should be the one who feel relieved not being blocked. This definitely sounds more patronizing than sincerely wanting me to be good.

If there are really someone out there who get hurt just because of my writing, I don’t think I can do anything except to feel regret. Forgive me if I’m being too straightforward – if there are someone out there who are so afraid of letting people know their things, then my suggestion is don’t tell your real name while meeting new friends, don’t tell anything about yourselves when meeting new friends, don’t socialize, and perhaps don’t speak but remain smile all the time. Perhaps a ‘burqa’ and a veil work better. Then you will be in a very safe cave where you can simply enjoy the whole cave by yourselves. In that case, nobody can or will talk about you.

It’s so sad that the people nowadays are so afraid when being commented or judged. I thought it’s a channel to hear from others and gain more understanding about yourselves. By the way, to my opinion, if you dare to do or speak but on the other hand getting worry or feeling uncomfortable when other people get to know your doings, or even make a comment on you, then this kind of people has no difference with a hypocrite.

If someone out there thinks that the blog things are all about teasing and maligning, then he or she is totally wrong. It’s all only about recording and expression of my personal thought except that I put it online.

I’m not that kind of person who refuses to hear from others as long as it’s reasonable and convincing. And please forgive me for being judgmental and acting in a seemingly arrogant way to protect my ground.

Hitching to Motherland

This is a blog entry that tells about money saving. If you are not interested or feel bored, don’t continue to read.

Once again, I feel accomplished to have made a wise decision followed by a correct move. (I almost convinced by S for the Torugart Pass crossing if it costs $70 or less). It costs me $40 to travel from Bishkek all the way to Kashgar via Irkeshtam Pass – a figure less than I expected. A 12-hour overnight shared taxi from Bishkek to Osh costs me 1000 Som; a 4-hour shared 4WD from Osh to Sary Tash costs me 500 Som(other paid 600 Som); an overnight stay in Sary Tash costs me 400 Som including dinner(pricey!); a hitch from Sary Tash to Irkeshtam Pass in a pre-arranged minivan costs me 200 Som(damn!); a compulsory Chinese border shuttle costs me 100 Som(I can walk!); a hitch in a pre-arranged 4-hour shared taxi from Irkeshtam Pass to Kashgar costs me nothing.

Sary Tash Guesthouse

It all began when I ran into a group of five travelers in Sary Tash including the two Finnish guys whom I met and hung around with weeks ago in Osh. They were chartering a minivan from Osh to Kashgar(I already knew it beforehand but I didn’t join because it’s too pricey! I somehow learnt that everything arranged by Osh Guesthouse are always more expensive than you go and search by yourselves). I was offered a ride when they know I was trying to hitchhike to the Irkeshtam Pass. But then the Kyrgyz driver wanted an outrageous of 1000 Som for that 45-minute ride, despite the fact that that was a chartered transfer – that means if I need to pay, I should pay to the five people, not the driver. I started to doubt on Kyrgyz people as I always think that besides being relatively honest, they are the ‘least money-oriented’ people in Central Asia. I was so discouraged and almost walked away when Basha, a Turkish-American tried to talk to the driver in Turkish in which he eventually agreed to settle to 300 Som. But I told the driver I have only 200 Som and if he didn’t want, then I hitch. I know the money would eventually be going inside his own pocket. It’s extra money for him.

The view of Irkeshtam Pass from Sary Tash

The view from Sary Tash to Irkeshtam Pass was so spectacular that I don’t think I can further elaborate here. From Kyrgyz border post, everybody had to hitch a Chinese truck(driven by Uyghur people) to cross the 3 km no-man’s land to the Chinese upper check post where a 10-Yuan compulsory minibus shuttle is waiting. It was there that the first time my laptop was inspected. Luckily it was near to noon time break for the Chinese border and all the officers were quite in a rush and no suspicious thing could be found. Phew~

Once walked out from the Chinese immigration building, there were already two pre-arranged taxis waiting for the five people. I learnt from a Chinese while hitching at the border that a transfer from the pass to Kashgar is 100 Yuan flat-rate(pricey!). So with thick-skin-face, I joined back the group again in their pre-arranged shared taxis to Kashgar. Every time the Uyghur driver made a phone call, guiltiness struck me. I was quite worry if he was making contact with the person in Osh Guesthouse and realized that I’m the 6^th and there was no 6^th existed in the group. Everybody at the back seat was sleeping like pigs but I stayed alerted and tried very hard to learn whom he was speaking to and whether he spoke Kyrgyz or Uyghur on the phone. I also tried to keep him busy by chatting with him but his Mandarin wasn’t good enough.

Ermmm…perhaps I shouldn’t feel guilty because they still earned extra by taking another two locals at the Chinese border to make up 4-passenger in each car. They still earned extra! And if I really need to pay, I should pay to the group because they were the one who chartered! The same logic applies when you charter a vehicle…if the driver takes passengers along the journey, don’t you think it’s reasonable that the money they paid should go inside your pocket?

OK! I feel better now.

It was around 4pm(Xinjiang time) when we arrived in Kashgar and waved goodbye to Amin –  the Uyghur driver who always tried to make phone calls along the way. Phew~~ $40 from Bishkek to Kashgar, not bad, huh? $100-$200 by Torugart Pass? What a joke!

Note: RM 1 ≈ 15 Som

           RM 1 ≈ 2 Yuan

Split

‘I’m leaving to Osh tomorrow night.’ This was what I told S when he was wondering why I did my laundry by myself as soon as coming back from Song-Köl since there is a free laundry service in the guesthouse every(tomorrow) afternoon.

Sakura Guesthouse

By hook or crook, I’m leaving Bishkek tomorrow. I have moved my chess. The next move is up to him to decide, whether to join me or continue to grow mushroom in HIS Sakura Guesthouse. I know he still wants to hang around here for who knows how many years more. He also preferred Torugart Pass over Irkeshtam Pass to cross to China regardless of the expensive costs($100-$200) it incurs just because it’s more straightforward(1-day cross), convenient(direct from Bishkek), hassle-free(arranged by travel agent) and doesn’t involve back-tracking. He told me my plan to cross to China via Irkeshtam Pass is a stupid idea and he would never do that. It was at this moment that I realized he is just one of those ordinary travelers who like to label themselves as budget-backpackers. Apparently we have different definition on ‘budget’. This is one of the reasons I don’t travel with those who can’t or not willing to bear with minor hardship for the sake of cost-saving. By spending $50 just to cross a border is already totally unacceptable for me, let alone $100-$200. So don’t try to convince me! In this case, I don’t mind(I always don’t) to sit in a 4-person overnight shared taxi for 12-hour back-tracking along winding mountainous road and across high mountain passes.

That wasn’t actually the only spark that broke the fellowship.

To be honest, I don’t need people to respect me, but don’t try to or insult me. I always can’t help to tell about my limitation when meeting and discussing with other travelers about my onward journey but hey, I don’t want somebody to act cool in front of me by telling people ‘because he carries a stupid Malaysian passport.’ Neither do I feel comfortable when my travel partner introduces me by saying ‘Oh, I was traveling with that f**king Malaysian guy’, or yelling ‘Shame on you!’ in front of new friends just to show his superiority. Most of the time, I felt insulted, be those intentional or unintentional. Did I tell you that I was actually the one who felt ashamed if your travel partner never mind to break wind while dining; wasted food while being served by hospitable herders in a yurt where food was scarce; refused to give a front seat to elders in a shared taxi; fighting with kids on the street just because being called a monkey; burning an US cash note in front of kids asking for money(despite this is more to a mere talk big); getting pissed off then putting the blame on you each time he get lost, missed buses or the alight points(‘See, I already told you this…See, I already told you to go xxx but you never listen’(he never) or ‘Give me the guidebook! You don’t know how to read a map…’(despite the fact that he was the one leading the way)) (There’s nothing to get fussy of when getting lost in a new place. If you really think that you are so good enough, then you go by yourselves! I don’t want to travel with someone who always thought that he is more superior than anybody else! I don’t want to travel with someone who likes to act cool and pointed the fingers to you when things run unfavorably.)

Arghhh…too many gossip and too many bad talks. I don’t want to bear with those unnecessary yet avoidable bad feelings. Why should I be someone else’s vent hole? Traveling is like everything else, if not happy, then split. No commitment.

Note: I didn’t even say goodbye when leaving with SowPeng to Osh not because I was narrow-minded but apparently he wasn’t there but I’m sure we will meet again either in Kashgar or Hunza.

Another Day(s)

The Chinese visa and the Indian visa are already on hand. There is no reason to stay here anymore. I can’t wait to move. Lazying in a place is not my style of traveling. (Occasional lazying is somehow permitted J). Neither does sticking in a place without any specific reason. Y, a Japanese guy slept next to me has been traveling for 3 years. He has been staying in Sakura Guesthouse in Bishkek for 3 weeks. I asked him what did he gain in the past 3 years and he said: ‘Well, after 1 year, the things you see are almost the same’. I didn’t nod at this time. Neither did I shake my head. I have changed my point of view in regards of traveling in a long journey. Tell you next time. We always hear the same story from him in which he tells everybody that he is going to leave tomorrow and after 1 week, he is still here and even after I came back from Issyk-Kul Lake, he is still lying on the same bed next to me. I presume he must had used 1 year for traveling, 1 year for moving and another 1 year for resting. So is Ym, another nice and kind Japanese guy. He plans to stay long here, probably 1 or 2 months, reputedly learning Russian. I have been staying here for a week in total and none of those days could be considered as ‘productive’ except suffering from a combination of light fever, flu, sore throat and diarrhea again and again each time I arrived here. (This might be the reason I don’t really enjoy this free-WIFI free-laundry guesthouse). My rule of thumb is never stay in a place, no matter how comfortable, how cheap or how backpacker-friendly the place is, more than a week or you would become lazy to move again. I have no intention of being sarcastic because you can do everything with your freedom and of course money but it is just that I really don’t understand how could that be possible for travelers to stay in a place for weeks by doing nothing except drinking and reading comics. Perhaps no reason or no ‘sense’ things are required if you have freedom and money.

I’m a serious traveler. (People already know lar! No need to emphasize from time to time). I have been too slow in moving. But the fact is I’m currently traveling with S – a Korean guy since Osh. He wants to stay here because there are bunch of Japanese here(including Y and Ym) and he speaks Japanese. He enjoys chatting and hanging around with them as if never care about tomorrow. I think, once again, I have made an unwise decision. I know I can simply say goodbye and leave but I think it’s too early and too emotional to make such decision. I decided to wait for another day as he promised to leave to Song-Kol tomorrow morning.

The first time I met S is in Tehran. It was there that we learnt we are traveling in the same direction. He dropped me a message in Facebook when I was in Samarkand hoping to meet me up somewhere and we did meet up in Samarkand but that was at the day I left to Tajikistan. He kept on persuading me to give up Tajikistan and travel with him from Samarkand onwards. It was in Bahodir House that I have no objection to travel with him to China and then Pakistan provided I didn’t have a chance for Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast. In fact, it has been my habit to travel alone. One of the reasons I ‘compromise’ is that I think I should re-adjust the way I travel and I need something or someone out there to make it happen. I think perhaps traveling with someone else would be a good idea.

I know my style of traveling very well and I also know that sticking with your own rigid style won’t make you good especially when you are in a long journey. To be honest, I don’t really like to travel with others, especially girls(Ok, not all of them lar). Sorry my fellow female friends and travelers. I’m sure someone out there can’t wait to lift up a banner of ‘sexual discrimination’ to show their opposition and call me a sexist. But hey, I really don’t want to take a taxi for a ‘short distance’. (You know what I mean for ‘short distance’). I don’t mind to walk under the sun(…the moon, stars, rain or whatsoever) for hours. I don’t mind to walk in the dark at night, or midnight or whatsoever. I don’t mind for not taking shower for days. I don’t mind to stay in a ‘cheap’ place. (You know what I mean for ‘cheap’). I don’t mind to sleep on the street for some unforeseen circumstances. I don’t mind to alight from a mistaken bus or ‘something’ I hitch and walk to the destination. I don’t want to pay for a pee. (You know what I mean). I don’t want to dine in a restaurant. I don’t need to call Mom…Bla…bla…bla

Most of the time, I prefer to be alone. I like total freedom and flexibility. This doesn’t mean I discard occasional socializing. You can classify me as a lone ranger or call me a freak. I don’t mind. I’d rather with my ownself unless I find someone who shares the similar travel style, and of course serious about traveling, someone like Vladimir from Russia, or someone like Christopher from South Africa. Ok lar…that someone also means girls even though I haven’t met any yet. I was damn bored while traveling in Central Asia at that time and desperately need someone to talk to and I’m sure so did S. I really treasured the last few hours of chatting, joking and smoking with him in Samarkand but you know, hanging out and traveling together are two different things. I couldn’t talk to the locals…Ok…not all locals are money-oriented and unapproachable. Some of them are actually quite helpful to some extent but there was no ground for conversation as I don’t speak Russian and they don’t speak English, or Chinese.

So, I ended up lazying in Sakura Guesthouse now where the only ‘productive’ thing I can come out with is this blog entry full of nagging and mumbling. HA! HA! HA! I hope tomorrow is a good day for Song-Kol and for me and of course I hope it will be a go.

Good night and good luck!

One More and No More

‘In case I get refused entry in the Indian Immigration office at Wagah/Attari border after 1 month, it will be my sole responsibility in which the consul is not here to be blamed.’ – TAN B.C, A****2046, September, 9 of 2011, Bishkek. 

Finally I get my Indian visa here in Bishkek. I applied it on Monday and get it after 5 working days, which is today. There wasn’t much thing to comment except the Kyrgyz lady in the reception. We were told to make a call to check the status of visa before showing up in the embassy. We have been calling numerous times from Karakol and Bishkek and the lady was either didn’t know anything(but insist us to call) and asked us to call back after 10 minutes, after 1 hour and after 1 day or, she went to market. Can you imagine? Walao~~

So according to ‘Indian rule’, there must be at least two blank pages in an applicant’s passport to be eligible for the visa. 1 full page for the visa and another full page for the entry and exit stamp. And I also heard that the Pakistani immigration implements the same ‘rule’ – the ‘Pakistani rules’. Are they competing to such an extent? I don’t understand why they need a full page just for the entry/exit stamp. There are plenty of spaces in my passport where they can simply put the damn stamps. Beh tahan nia. This is the reason why until now I still haven’t removed any used or unused visa from my passport because if I do, they will certainly and quickly occupy it as if whoever comes first is the winner. Childish. Things always happen in such a way that if there are choices, you always tend to take it for granted or simply follow the routine but if there aren’t, then only you will scratch your head to come out with solution. I hope I’m not the one who would have to scratch the head.

So, the Indian consul officer asked me to write in a piece of paper acknowledging that it will be my sole responsibility in case I’m refused entry to India. So I wrote and signed. I don’t give a shit. I don’t think I will have problem to make the crossing. Ok, I hope not.

So one more page left and that is for Pakistan.

Door Closed

Greetings…Travelers!

The Kyrgyz side of the border at Irkeshtam Pass was closed soon after the end of Ramadan. Then the Chinese side of the border at the same pass was closed until 5^th September for some unknown reason again. The second Kyrgyzstan/China border at Torugart Pass is actually classified by the Chinese as ‘Class 2’ border crossing which means only for local traffic. It is however passable for foreigners provided you have a hefty wallet plus heavy-duty mind and brain to deal with the unpredictable and painstaking red tape. I have neither of the above-mentioned so I have to stop thinking about Torugart Pass. After the ‘border plaything’ between Kyrgyzstan and China, it’s now the turn of China and Pakistan to close their doors. The only China/Pakistan border at Tashkurgan/Sost along the Karakoram Highway is impassable from 6^th September reputedly until 15^th September for those seeking Pakistani visa on arrival and the reason is the Pakistani immigration office is running out of visa sticker! Can you believe it? Walao~

                                              (Photo from Internet)

So no border crossing for those traveling overland from Kyrgyzstan to Pakistan for half a month! Wow~~

Cyclists and travelers ahead of me have been reported to be either stuck in Osh/Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan or in Tashkurgan in China before the doors open again. I’m truly lucky at this time and should heave a big sign of relieve(Phew~~~~~~~~~~~) as I haven’t make my way to Kashgar. Otherwise, with my 5-day transit visa, I’ll definitely fuck up.

Phew~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Sick of Going behind…

I thought I was lucky(if not smart) to be able to ‘flimflam’ a Chinese transit visa at Chinese Embassy here in Bishkek simply because I speak Mandarin(pŭtōnghuà). (Rumor have it that you need a Letter of Invitation(LOI) from one of the travel agents based in Xinjiang as part of the visa support documents or otherwise you pay more($80-$100) to a travel agent in Bishkek or someone named Ms. Liu to sort it out for you). Well…I don’t think it’s because I speak Mandarin but because I’m a Chinese. I always feel that the Chinese outside mainland China always have something deep in their mind or try to do something to connect back to their root in China and the Chinese in mainland China will never hesitate to give a hand to the Chinese outside mainland China whenever they needs help. You know, favor among the same kind. I can feel that the Chinese consul officers there were trying to help me out when I shook my head when they asked for LOI, flight ticket and onward visa. Ermmm…maybe I have been on the road for a while and desperately thirst for cares from someone at home alike.

So, it costs me $40 for a 5-day transit visa. (I still have to wait for a week!). I never expect I’d be able to get a Chinese transit visa in Bishkek and I never expect I had to pay $40 for it! Damn it!

According to other travelers’ account, Tashkent remains the easiest and most hassle-free place in Central Asia to apply for a Chinese visa. You either pay $60 or $80(sorry, getting older day by day…can’t remember anymore) for the regular tourist visa processing or pay $100 straight to get it at the same day. The reason I didn’t organize it in Tashkent is because there isn’t any cheap place to stay in Tashkent and I know waiting for the visa by staying in a relatively expensive accommodation will kill me.

See…there is no reason I should feel lucky or smart about the Chinese visa. In fact, I think ’m quite stupid.

                                        Silk Road   (Photo extracted from Internet)

It wasn’t until I dazed myself in front of the map of Asia(this is my usual pastime)on my bed in the student-dorm alike guesthouse in Bishkek after coming back from the embassy that I started to regret for not applying a Chinese tourist visa. I already paid $40 for the transit visa and why not top another $40 or so for the tourist visa? Traveling around Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Province especially continuing my Silk Road along the southern shore of the infamous Taklimakan Desert to Urumuqi and then getting back to Kashgar via the TianShan Range before getting in Pakistan is totally possible and journey-wise. The reason that holds me back is that I thought Chinese tourist visa is expensive(it is! But comparing the difference…) and I shouldn’t try it as it is going to be canceled once I make my way to Tibet from Nepal. It’s not worth. But I never thought that a mere transit visa also costs me so much. Another reason is actually the closure time of the Karakoram Highway. Technically it open from May, 1 to November, 15 but snow might close it earlier. Under no circumstances would I miss Pakistan considering all the overland hardship from Iran to China via Central Asia. But hey, I don’t think I will need more than a month to make a loop back and I don’t think snow will come a month earlier…but hey, who knows? Arghhh….so sick of going behind and bearing the outcome of a decision!