Bodhgaya – The Crucible of Buddhism

It is well known that Bodhgaya is the place where Buddha achieved enlightenment.

Contrary to its significance as the spot where Prince Siddhartha achieved enlightenment, as Buddha, 2600 years ago, the heart of Bodhgaya – the Mahabodhi Temple Complex, is relatively small, serene, modest and not majestic. Walking (clockwise) round the temple early in the morning before dawn appears to be everyone’s routine here.

The Mahabodhi Temple is topped by a 50 m pyramidal spire

The temple houses a 10th century 2 m high gilded image of a seated Buddha 

Making offerings to the steps of Buddha while walking clockwise round the temple

Interestingly, the most sacred tree in the temple complex – the Bodhi Tree a.k.a. Sri Maha Bodhi, is not the original tree under which Prince Siddhartha achieved enlightenment. The original tree has perished in the hand of Ashoka’s jealous wife, Tisarakkha almost a century after the death of Buddha. The current tree is believed to be originated from a sapling taken from the original tree before it perished. Nevertheless, it is considered the most important among the four holiest sites of Buddhism – Lumbini, Bodhgaya, Sarnath and Kushinagar.

Meditation under the Sri Maha Bodhi

Visiting the many temples and monasteries erected at the vicinity of the Mahabodhi Temple Complex by respective foreign Buddhist communities was like visiting embassies of various countries. Each temple or monastery is constructed in their own national style with their unique icons decorating the temple. I personally found Tergar Monastery of the Karmapa School of Tibetan Buddhism located out of town particular interesting. While it is considered a modern monastery and is not spectacular, the decorative arts and the meticulous architectural styles are enough to impress anyone taking the extra mile visiting here. One can also see little monks performing debate under the guidance of senior monks.

      Bangladesh Buddhist Monastery (Will this surprise you?)

Bhutanese Monastery

Tergar Monastery

A peek into the richly decorated interior is a treat in itself

Little monks were performing debate while being distracted by curious intruders

People have been telling me Bodhgaya to Buddhist is what Mecca to Muslim. I can see that it attracts thousands of pilgrims from around the world to come here as well as to its many places of religious significance, either for mediation, study, prayer or just to feel the atmosphere, with Thais, Burmese and Tibetan top the list. The Thai influence here seemed to be quite prevailing. One can see some locals speaking Thai with Thais in restaurants or shops. There was even a Thai Massage at Thai Clinic in a Thai Temple.

To my personal opinion, equaling Bodhgaya with Mecca is a bit misnomer. I didn’t feel that way at bare minimum, probably because it is low season in Bodhgaya now. Really? I don’t even know Bodhgaya is seasonal. I asked the many strangers idling on the street when is the high season. I was told it is October to December because Dalai Lama is visiting Bodhgaya at that time. I wondered if Dalai Lama is more revered than the Buddha.

Hotels and guesthouses are aplenty to the extent that almost every building you see on the street is either a hostel, guesthouse, rest house or some sort of homestay. The numbers of guesthouses are simply more than the combination of temples and monasteries. In fact, one can also stays in some temples or monasteries with a small fee. International direct buses going to and leaving from Kathmandhu and Thimphu are also available. I wondered how it would be like during the high season.

Buddha has been the selling point in this little booming town. Even a rudimentary roadside restaurant is called Buddha Restaurant.

As a matter of fact, the ambiance and the monastic tranquility in Bodhgaya could be better preserved if not for the ubiquitous souvenir stalls and some English-speaking wannabe tour guides loitering on the street trying to sell you their service, or stories. Being one of the few tourists visiting this little town during the 'low season', I felt like being inundated with the obligatory questions such as ‘Where are you from?’ ‘How old are you?’ ‘How long you plan to stay in Bodhgaya?’ ‘Where you stay?’ ‘Where you want to go?’ I found myself losing the mood to entertain the same old repeated question, sometimes even from the same person on the street. There was even a Nepali who lost his patience when I didn’t want to tell him where I stay. At one time, I was approached by a local claiming to be a local right after I came out from my guesthouse. He invited me for a chai which I paid for it. That’s actually alright. He claimed he works with a NGO empowering women to live independently and sustainably by producing organic fabric. His customers are mainly European tourists because the products are expensive and the local do not understand the concept of organic. I think what he was trying to tell, if not sell, is that the local couldn’t afford it. He then invited me to Buddha caves at Sujata on the back of his motorbike for free. All I need to pay is only the petrol.

Should I take the offer?

Note: Mahabodhi Temple Complex at Bodhgaya is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Site (Cultural Site) inscribed in 2002.