First of all, don’t simply believe everything you read, be it in the internet travel forum or travel guidebook.
Getting There and Away (By Land)
The only border crossings available for foreigners are Turkey and Iran.
Turkey: You enter Iraq through its northwestern corner – the Ibrahim Khalil border post at Habur. The nearest town is Silopi, which is 15 km from the border post. You can take a series of dolmus from bigger cities in Turkey to the springboard of Silopi. The sample fare of dolmus is Midyat-Idin-Cizre-Silopi-Habur = YTL 7, 4, 4, 5. Ignore the taxi drivers in Silopi as they charge an unacceptable YTL 20 for a mere 15 km drive and claim that that is the only way to get there. Some idiots even paid $50 for it! Hitchhiking is possible from Silopi but bear in mind that if you get a ride from a truck driver, you will have to walk to the border from distant away as there is usually a long queue of trucks before the border. You are likely allowed to walk to the Turkish stamping booth(if not, just insist on it or hitchhike from the gate) and once you are stamped exit in Turkish side of border, you will have to hitchhike a random vehicle for a merely 500m crossing over the Tigris River to get you to the Iraqi Kurdistan side of border as walking on foot is ludicrously prohibited. You will be granted a 10-day standard visit visa on arrival which is free and extendable after you answer some standard questions. It is pretty straightforward and it usually takes less than half an hour. There are usually some taxis waiting outside the border which you can take to travel to the nearest town of Zakho or further to Dohuk. It is also possible to hitchhike by asking someone in the immigration building while waiting for your visa. If you are leaving Iraqi Kurdistan to Turkey through Ibrahim Khalil border post, bear in mind that you will likely have to wait for a ridiculous 6-hour just to pass through the Turkish side of border as rumors have it that the Turkish custom officers are making this on purpose and it is not uncommon for them to go for a tea break in the middle of hectic long queues. There are also some small scale of smugglings especially cigarette from Iraqi Kurdistan to Turkey.
Iran: You enter Iraq through its northeastern corner – Haji Omaran border post. The nearest town is Piranshahr which is about 20 km away. You can travel to Piranshahr by taking a bus from Orumiyeh(pronounce Urmia in Kurdish). Once you are in the Iranian side, you can take a shared taxi to Erbil(IQD 22,000; 2.5 hrs) through Hamilton Road which is very scenic and yet very unfriendly due to the unexploded land mines left behind during the 8-year Iran-Iraq War. If you are leaving Iraqi Kurdistan to Iran, apparently there is a bus($30, 7-8 hrs) departing from Erbil to the border but I failed to locate the bus company. Even I hate taxis, it gave me no reason not to take it in this case as it’s far cheaper and faster. Once you crossed over Haji Omaran border to the Iranian side, just wait with locals right after the border as they will be buses passing through which will bring you either to Piranshahr or Orumiyeh for FREE. But bear in mind, do it as low profile as possible especially to get away from the taxi drivers. One of the drivers threatened me to report to the traffic police as I was not in the passenger’s list. Change your money here as the money changers here are more honest and they usually offer better rate than those in Iraqi Kurdistan side of border.
It’s not possible to cross from Syria to Iraqi Kurdistan or vice versa unless you have an Iraqi visa, which is not likely to issue to independent travelers. The Rabiya border remains as ‘local-only’ crossings.
Transportation
You can’t really get around in Iraqi Kurdistan without taking a shared taxi. But this doesn’t mean that you should only rely on shared taxi. Apparently there are lots of cheaper buses but you need some efforts to figure out.
Shared taxi from Zakho to Dohuk(IQD 5,000; 1 hr) leaves when it is full. It is not necessary to hop on a taxi to get yourself to the garage. It is relatively easy to reach on foot(10-30 minutes) from the town of Zakho. Just ask around for ‘Dohuk Garage’. Keep in mind that this garage is just a parking compound with a hut.
Shared taxi from Dohuk to Amediya(IQD 7,000; 1 hr) leaves when it is full. The garage is near the Stadium but is distant away from the town. If you hate taxi like I do, just ask around in the town and by luck you will get a lift by a private taxi. You should pay him the same amount of money and ignore for any overcharge. As for return, shared taxi leaves from either Amediya(the first round about in the town) or Sulav(an hour downhill walk from Amediya)( just ask and wait at any souvenir shop or restaurant) to Dohuk and both should cost the same price.
Shared taxi from Dohuk to Suleymaniyah(IQD 35,000; 5-6 hr) leave either from the taxi office near the souq or you can ask them to pick you up in your hotel. If you prefer to break the journey, there is a shared taxi from Dohuk to Akre(IQD 8,000-10,000, 1 hr); from Akre to Raniya(IQD 12,000-15,000; 2.5 hrs); and from Raniya to Suleymaniyah(IQD 8,000; 1.5 hrs). From Raniya, it is possible to go to Choman (IQD 5,000; 1 hr) by shared taxi. There are lots of hiking opportunity but beware of land mines. Seek local advice before attempting any hike. You can also take a shared taxi from Dohuk to Erbil(IQD 15,000; 2 hrs) and from Erbil to Suleymaniyah(IQD 10,000; 2 hrs). News from other travelers said that there are cheaper buses from Dohuk to Erbil. However, the buses from Dohuk to Erbil might go into the city of Mosul, which is under Arab Iraq, before making its way to Erbil.
Minibus from Suleymaniyah to Halabja(IQD 3,000; 2.5 hrs) leaves from the garage located outside the town centre. It’s a 15-minute walk from the busiest souq in the town centre or you can take a bus(IQD 400) from the town centre there. Just go to a garage nearby and ask for ‘Halabja Garage’. Shared minivan from Suleymaniyah to Erbil(IQD 10,000; 2 hrs) leaves from another garage miles away from the town centre and you should take a bus(IQD 400) there. The main highway between Erbil and Suleymaniyah goes into Arab Iraq. While buses might go into the city of Kirkuk, which is under Arab Iraq, before making its way to Erbil, shared taxis usually will make the trip through the outskirt of Kirkuk (If you are in a shared taxi, don’t fall asleep as you can have a glimpse from the car’s window on the grey city of Kirkuk which is totally different with all the cities to the north).
People have been telling me that Mosul and Kirkuk are the most dangerous city in Iraq. There have been some attacks and kidnapping there but I wasn’t able to further testify it as with my Iraqi Kurdistan visa, I’m not allowed to travel further south. But even if you happen to be in Arab Iraq, don’t panic and just remain calm. The driver will help you to get through of it after you answer some questions as there isn’t any clear border line between Arab Iraq and Iraq Kurdistan. Bear in mind that it’s illegal to travel to Arab Iraq with an Iraqi Kurdistan visa unless you have an Iraqi visa which is currently unlikely to issue to independent travelers considering the current situation in the country.
Shared taxi from Erbil to Haji Omaran border(IQD 22,000; 3 hrs) leaves when it is full from a small garage which will take you 20 minutes to reach on foot from the citadel.
Accommodation
News from other travelers have been telling that it is literally easy to get invited by locals to stay overnight in their houses. I was lucky to be invited for a walk, a chat(and a photo session?) but regrettably I was never lucky enough to be invited for a home stay.
Dohuk: Kordo Hotel (Twin bed private ensuite; IQD 15,000).
- This was the most luxurious place I have ever stayed as far as my trip goes, with satellite TV, fridge, cupboard, couch, clean bathroom and big twin bed. All are more than enough for me. Now I understand what value is for money. The 18-year old Wisam speaks English. Bargaining is necessary.
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| Hotel Kordo |
Suleymaniyah: Brayan Hotel (Twin Bed Room; IQD 15,000).
- This is also a very comfortable and well-equipped room. Again, all are more than enough for me. Bargaining was necessary.
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| Brayan Hotel |
Erbil: Sarsung Hotel (Twin Bed Room, IQD 12,000)
-This was the cheapest one I can find near the Citadel and it was gloomy and tatty and the share bathroom and toilets were disgusting. I stayed in a windowless room but luckily the weather wasn’t too warm. Only locals stay here. Bargaining was not necessary as the owner knows it was the cheapest place in town. The owner speaks no English.
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| Sarsung Hotel |
Note: I was wrong. Lebanon isn’t the most expensive country in the Middle East. It’s Iraq. RM 1 ≈ 375 IQD
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